Welting Installation -
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To start our project, we measured and cut a
piece of welting. We added about 6" onto our measurement for positioning
of the welting later on.
With our piece cut to length, we
then notched the welting to match our fender radius. This was done by cutting triangle
piece from the welting to the bead. This photo shows the radius notching and the
cool tool used to do the job. If for some reason you haven't seen this tool
yet, Sears is the place to get one.
Once, the notches had been cut, we test
fit our work on the fender radius to see if more notching was needed. The spacing
used here will work for just about any radius. Straight sections only need trimming
at the bolt holes. They can be trimmed out now or after the welting has been
attached to the fender.
With our piece trimmed and test
fit, we moved on. Shown in this photo are the 3M #90 High Strength Adhesive that we
used to attach the welting to the fender and some thinner for clean up. The best
type of thinner for this job is a medium temperature lacquer thinner. This allows for
clean up of the adhesive, but allows the thinner to evaporate before any damage is done to
the finish. Wipe off any excess adhesive fast and don't rub for too long. Quick, wet wipes
pickup the adhesive and allows the thinner to fast off quickly.
Apply the spray adhesive to
both the fender flange and the welting. Keep a cloth with
thinner ready in case you miss. The 3M spray head is adjustable to
spray pattern tight enough not to make a mess. Test your spray pattern
before you start. This will eliminate surprises. One or two passes is
enough for both pieces. Be careful not to pile up the adhesive as you
spray. A thin coat is what you are trying to achieve.
a 1-2 minutes for the adhesives to tack up and then apply the welting to the
fender. Keep the welting bead flush with the top of the fender as you
apply the welting. Allow the adhesive to dry for 10 - 20 minutes
before attach the fender to the body. [more]
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