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Our Deluxe kit included the powder gun, cup, power source and activator switch, 2 disposable in-line filter, high temperature   masking tape, silicon plugs, stainless steel wire, 3 extra cups and 2 cans of a standard color powder.  We also ordered a few more colors to help get us started.

Eastwood offers OEM engine colors for both Ford and GM products.  If you have another make, there are many other colors that are very close to some of the other manufactures OEM engine colors.

If your into a custom look, there are also some exotic colors or "Specialty" colors that can be applied over chrome or clean steel to achieve that "Custom" look.  In short, there are over 45 different colors available to choose from.  Always use original HotCoat powders with the HotCoat system to assure yourself your of getting only the best in quality and protection. 

This kit also includes silicon plugs. During curing, these plugs prevent powders from flowing into areas where you do not want powder to flow. Along the same lines, the Fiberglass Tape supplied in the kit helps you mask off those areas where you do not want powder. Both are designed to handle the 400 degree curing temperature.  The silicon plugs can also be used as "feet" to set parts on during curing in the oven.  The Stainless Steel wire works well for hanging parts during coating and curing.

Dry air is very important in powder coating, so Air Filters are supply to assure you have just that.  The Starter and Deluxe kits provide 3 Extra Cups for fast switching between colors.

Last but not least, there is an instruction manual.  The instructions are very good and cover most everything you need to know to get started.

TEST PART

The following is a brief overview of the project and does not cover all the information you need to know about safety and the proper use of the equipment.  The entire instruction manual is online. Please read and follow the instructions   and follow them. Doing so will guarantee you great results without any surprises.   Now onward!

Once the case had been stripped, we bead blasted the case to remove any paint or dirt on the surface.   Also, it is important to remove any aluminum oxide from the case to assure good bonding of the powder.  This is a process that should undertaken with all metals.   If you do not have a blasting cabinet, you should consider purchasing one.   You can pick up inexpensive bench top models for this type of work.  If blasting is not an option, you can remove these contaminates with a soft wire brush and chemical cleaners, but we recommend media blasting for the best results.

After smoothing off the case, we drop it back into the blasting cabinet for a "light" dusting of glass beads on a low pressure setting.  This finial step in the case finishing is necessary to blend away sanding scratches and provide a good tooth for the powder coating material.

Next, we prep baked the case at 400 degrees for 10 minutes.  This process drives out any oils trapped in the pours of the casting.  Once the case was cool, it was wiped down with a wax and grease remover. We used PRE Painting Prep (#1679Z) from the Eastwood Company and blew the part dry with clean air.  One note here, air from an air compressor is not always clean.  In some cases there maybe oil and moisture carry over.  Depending on your setup, you may need a filter trap to make sure your not blowing oil laden air all over your clean parts. 

Also, latex gloves should be worn from now on to protect yourself, as well as the part from contaminates.  Oils from your fingers will cause you that same problems in powder coating as they do when spray painting. Clean, Clean, Clean, we can't say it enough!  The preparation is the most important step in any finishing work and powder coating is no exception.  Also, use paper towels or a lint free cloth to wipe down your parts.  [more]

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