Fuel & Brakes 52 GMC

[Wolfy]

Hello All! I have a few questions regarding my new purchase that my wife bought me!! I have a 1952 GMC pickup. 3/4 ton. I just picked it up this weekend. I am living in Kansas City, MO Area.
I believe that my motor is a 228 or 248, I will be checking into this later.
Truck runs when you poor gas into the top of the carb.

Fuel System:
I pulled all the lines off, blew them out, drained the tank until I had clean fuel coming out. Hooked the lines back up and still had no fuel to the carb. I knew this, because i had pulled the fuel filter out, and was seeing if the pump would put out any fuel, before it hit the carb. And it didn't.
My 1st question would be do you think that my fuel pump is bad??? If it is, where can i purchase a new pump, and are there any tricks, tips to installing the new one.

Is there anything else that I should be checking for before i purchase a new pump. I have the old pump off right now, however I don't know how to tell if it is bad or good or what.

Brakes:
The brake system is the worst thing about the truck. I looked underneath and the front brake line is not even hooked up, and the master cylinder is full of RUST!!! I was going to purchase a master cylinder rebuild kit, and wheel cylinder rebuild kits, as well as clean out the lines and inspect .
Any other suggestions for the brake system?

My main goal for this truck currently is to get it running and stopping! There are some other major issues, like the passenger door not shutting, due to a fairly large dent / sprung hinges. But I am really excited to get it on the road and drive it.

Any suggestions will be helpful.

Thanks
Brian

[Mr_Mac]

Brian,

First of all, welcome to the forum! Always great to have new people who share our passions for these old trucks!

As for your questions, let's look at your fuel issue. If, when the truck is either running or turning over (either by hand or starter motor) the pump should be shooting fuel up the lines. Some testing can be done by connecting a hose to the input side of the pump and the other end in some fluid (water is fine) and operate the lever. If you don't see any water shooting out the output side then the diaphragm is likely bad and a new pump is in order. As a rule of thumb, whenever you buy a new pump, get a new filter too.

Another test you can do is a vacuum test of the lines to ensure they are not clogged. You can use a small hand pump (like a brake bleeder) to verify fuel can be drawn from the tank, or even try to push air the other way and listen for bubbles in the tank. I prefer the vacuum test as this will also let you know if there's anything in the fuel that shouldn't be there.

The brake system is one of those systems that, IMHO you should never go cheap/easy on! If you ever plan on converting to a disc brake system, do it now and replace any old parts to include master cylinder and lines. If you are keeping your original style brakes, I still would recommend a new master cylinder, lines/hoses and wheel cylinders. Any foreign matter in the brake lines could prevent normal operation. If your drums are old and worn, replace them too! Remember, as much fun as it is to go, it's much better to stop!

Now, I realize what I just suggested can be costly, but in the end, you probably will want to spend the money there anywhere.

Good luck and post the pics!

Mac

[Wolfy]

Thanks for the reply! I am excited about getting this truck running and stopping!!! I will try to test the fuel pump tonight. As for the fuel lines, I have blown them all out with compressed air, so I know that they are clean and clear.

The brake system, yes, I agree 100% that i should fix it all, while im doing it. I am just going to keep the drum system for several years. I may upgrade in the future.

I will try to get some pics posted soon.

I plan on fixing the brakes, Fuel system. After that I will need to have the passenger door put back on. Looks like someone backed into a poll with the door open. Next I will go on to the wiring, which isn't so bad, I just have some broken wires for my turn signals, and my gas gauge just pegs out at full, Im sure i will find more, when i get it running. After that I plan on getting all of the gauges working, lights, etc. Finally, I want to replace the weather stripping, and some glass, the headliner, door panels, and floor cover.

I plan on driving it "beat up" looking for a while, then I will have some the final body work done on it!

Im glad that i found this forum. I have always enjoyed these old trucks. My dad had a 53 Chevy when I was 5-10yrs old, and I still remember it. My 1st truck when I was 14 was a 59 gmc, I sold it cuz i didn't like it as much as the 50's era. Now im 25, and my wife bought me my 52! The 1st weekend I had it, all the guys in my neighborhood came out and commented on it. These trucks are the best!

[Mr_Mac]

When you decide to buy your weather stripping and brakes, go to American Classic Truck Parts (http://www.americanclassic.com/index.htm) and check out their kits. You can get the weather stripping and brake parts as a kit which will save you a bit of money versus buying pices and parts and you get to save on shipping sinc ethey ship the kit.

Mac

[Mr_Mac]

Actually, they are in KCMO as well! I guess you can save a lot on shipping charges!

1 Chevy Duty Dr
Kansas City, MO 64150

[Rich-Md]

Welcome.. I own a 54 GMC truck 1/2 ton. Yes, Mr. Mac is correct stating "don't go cheap on the breaks". I also suggest to buy new or remanufactured stuff when ever possible. Another source is Classic Parts of America and LMC Trucks. There are a few more out there. Get as many catalogs as possible and start dreaming.:)
Yep the the fuel pump is the culpert. Sorry but I don't have one. I have a 305 V8 with a 1968 3 speed manual transmission, 86 Camero rearend and IFS with disk breaks. My old straight axel and front leaf springs are laying in the back yard waiting to go to the junk yard.
Next I will be looking to replace the my worn out bench seat.
Keep us up dated on your project.

[Wolfy]

MR MAC:

Thanks for the links... I do have a catalog for the company here in KC MO. They are only like 45 min from me! I called them about a fuel pump, but it didn't sound like they had one for my 3/4 ton, due to the size of the motor???
Is there any way to find out what size of motor I have? Its the straight 6, thats all I know. I have my VIN #. 15222P12363. I will try to get the motor # tonight.
I will have to check into the brake kits... that could save me some money, and I want to do everything right, the 1st time.

Rich MD:

Thanks for the info on vendors, I will definitly check them out as well! Sounds like you have your project going along very well. Eventually I wouldn't mind putting a different suspension under this truck, but that will be a while. Sometime soon, however, I am going to swap the rear end out for some 3:XX something gears, so I can drive it over 40. Any suggestions on the gear ratio, or size of gears that will fit. Ideally I want to go to a junk yard, and get a set of gears, however I don't know what to look for. Good luck with your project, and I will try to get some pics posted soon!!!

Thanks
Brian

[Mr_Mac]

Brian,

You may want to recheck your VIN number as the one you listed comes back as a 1961 something. You can go to American Classic Truck Parts (http://www.americanclassic.com/index.asp) and check you VIN here (http://www.americanclassic.com/paint_test.asp) when you confirm it.

You should have a data plate like this and your VIN will also look similar to this example.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z112/jaguars_fan/52%20Chevy/1952ChevIDPlate.jpg


Mac

[Mr_Mac]

On second thought...that VIN decoder is for Chevy and I cannot seem to find one for GMC! I'll keep looking though!

[Mr_Mac]

I called GMC directly to see if I could get some info from them (hey, it worked for Chevy) and they acted like they never knew they built trucks 50 years ago! They did assure me that they would check it and get back to me. When that happens, I'll get back to you! :D

[Wolfy]

hey, thanks for the help. Yeah i saw that link and it was Chevy only!! Oh well. Here is a link from LMC, that I just found. It seems to be directly out of their catalog.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/ca/full.asp?page=10

There are other pages that provide tons of information for several years of GMC/Chevy. If the link doesn't work, just go to LMC's website and look around in there catalog. That is where I found it. I believe this one is on page 10

I have another question. When I removed my fuel pump the lines that were attached where on the top. And the actuator lever, that goes in the engine, is also pointing up. I haven't looked at it too much, but is it possible that It is upside down? I don't think that it will fit the other way, but several of the part catalog pictures show them upside down when compared to how i took mine off. Also according to my VIN i have a 228ci engine. What pump will work for my motor?

Thanks again for the help!!

[romeske1950]

i like those gmc's, I would say replace all your break lines and hoses, never know how rusty they are on teh inside. Replace your wheel cylinders and master unless you can rebuild them, which ive found isnt hard at all, unless they are totally discusting, almost cheaper to just buy new ones though. The fuel problem you have sounds like either your fuel lines arent making seals where they mate, or the same problme i had first; a craked and leaky diaphram. Its easy to test, i would say take it off and throw it in your sink and pump it by hand. Just to be safe i would replace it anyway. LMC is a good place and so is classic parts of america and jim carter chevy, theyve all got gmc parts too.


your hinges probably have sheared pins like mine did, its common, especially if it was backed into the poll. Dont forget to check the common things like front wheel bearings and such. Sticking all drum isnt so bad, thats what i have and i like driving with that more than my 1989 ranger with those power brakes and disks. Look at your frame too, you dont want to be driving around with any weak areas on your frame. Your gas guage sounds like a problem with the sending unit being stuck. easy fix.


keep us updated

[Wolfy]

Thanks for the help, Yeah I really like the GMC as well. I always wanted a chevy, but the more I looked at the GMC, the more i liked it. Hopefully this next week I am going to get the LMC down the road, and pick up a master cylinder, wheel cylinder rebuild kits, pads, springs, and a new fuel pump. I also need to check into the battery, alternator, and starter.

I also don't mind the drum brake system, they will work just fine for me for the time being.

Has anybody swapped just the gears in the rear end on their truck? I want to do that soon, however i was just wondering if there are better deals out there then a brand new set of gears?

Thanks for the help

B

[Mr_Mac]

Brian,

Is your engine a SB V8? I have been looking for a fuel pump and keep hitting a wall known as marine engine. I did find a fuel pump for a 228 marine engine for $90 (allow me to offer these words: electric, fuel and pump).

[Rich-Md]

Check out your VIN Numbere Here

Looks like you have a 150 Model with a 228 engine

http://www.antiquegmtrucks.com/VIN/

[Rich-Md]

Chech here..
Looks like you have a 150 Model with a 228 engine.

http://www.antiquegmtrucks.com/VIN/

[Wolfy]

MR Mac:

I don't have a V8, maybe someday, but for now, I like the ol I6, great little motor!!! I will have to search for the marine version, thanks for the info. Ive been so busy, i haven't looked for my motor # yet, and wont get around to it till next week:( But according to m VIN if have the 228 I6.

Rich:

Thanks for the info. That site is a great reference, is there any way to keep that reference for this site, say under technical info? if its already there, sorry, i haven't had time to look around this site.

Thanks again for all the help. I took my old pump off a couple of nights ago, and pumped it by hand, and i didn't get too much out of it. it didn't feel like it was moving much of anything, so hopefully that will be it. Is there anything on the carb, that I should clean out? It does run, when I pour gas in the carb. I did take off the steel line into the carb, and some cap right after that, and they were full of junk. Any thing else I should look for in the carb?

thanks
b

[romeske1950]

I did a rear end swap on my chevy. I have a 1980 camero rear end. I dont know if the gmcs had the closed driveshaft, but if so, youll have to swap the transmission too, wich is alright because 60s and 70s trans should fit on the bell housing, though youll have to do a crossmember. its not really a hard job to swap, it was one of the easier things i did to my truck. With the 216 i used the 3.08 camaro rear and i could cruise at 60 mph pretty well (flat terrain) so if you keep your old 6 you should be fine. you may want ot upgrade some stim though with either some 8 or a newer 6. the 1950 chevy 3100 backplate to backplate measure was 56 in and you can go down to 52 in with a new rearend and shoudl still have enough clearance. Its nice when you have all the same bolt patterns on your wheels, so try to go for that. I have 5 lug in the rear and 6 in the front, not very bright. remember to make sure you also have the right length driveshaft if you get a new trans as well. Make sure they are the same u-joints as the rear end so it all matches up.

[Wolfy]

Here's a simple question. When I pulled my fuel pump out, the actuating lever was curved upward, and the lines connecting the pump are on the top. Now I asked the parts guys at American Classic parts, and they said that it was upside down. Which would explain why it wasn't working. Any comments on how the fuel pump should bolt up to the block?

[romeske1950]

now the actuating arm im pretty sure should be curved upwards. Thats how mine is on my 216 and that one works fine. Its powered off the camshaft and i think it will acutally work either way. All the pictures i see in catalogs of these old fuel pumps are upside dowm from how i have mine, but mine works. On my 68 250 engine, the pump is held up with the hoses on the top rather than the pump seemingly "hanging", and it works fine, so i think that the arm is ment to curve up.

[Wolfy]

I think the arm is meant to be upward also. I saw a picture of a GMC 228 engine on the net somewhere, and the fuel pump was mounted the same as mine. I will be receiving a new pump in a few days from Classic Parts of America.

I am a little disappointed in LMC trucks. They don't have any parts for the 228 GMC motor, nor do they understand that they are different then the Chevy's. They sold me the wrong fuel pump, and oil filter already. They said that it would work, I should have known better. Now Classic Parts of America, has a lot more parts for my truck, and they are cheaper on several items.
Ex) Master cylinder from LMC = $129: CPA= $99
SS Break lines LMC = $210: CPA = $160

It is nice having both places so close. LMC is only 15 min drive, and CPA is only 30 min drive. :)