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| These are my battle worn wiring tools. The top set is a pair of Klein crimpers, and the bottom set is a pair of Blue Point strippers. I always use BOTH pairs when putting on wire terminals. One to strip, and one to crimp. The thin steel strippers just don't do the job when it comes to crimping terminals properly. The crimpers are wide, and have the right shape to make a good crimp. |
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This is the right way to crimp terminals. It takes a little extra time
to locate the terminal's seam, but it makes a MUCH better crimp if this
is done. Otherwise, the side of the seam gets mashed into the wire, and
it loses strength. This goes for all terminals, from rings to butt splices.
Use this type crimp on insulated terminals too. Ignore any arguments to the contrary, I've done it this way successfully for more than 22 years. |
| Don't buy "1,500 pieces for $14.99" terminal
kits. They are NOT worth it. The cheap terminals have
the tinsel strength of wet toilet tissue. Try them - make a crimp, then
pull on the wires. Pop goes the weasel.
Use 3M terminals. They are more expensive, but they won't come apart easy. |
Never, use a butt splice under a floor mat. They will corrode and fall apart in a few months due to moisture. If you must fix a broken wire under a mat, cut the wire off until it is above the mat, then re-run a new piece through to the other side to get it above the mat also. If you ran out of wire, and are splicing under the mat to make it longer, shame on you. Rerun it!! |
| Don't use 'Scotch Taps' These are the type of tap-in terminals with the blade inside which cuts through the wire and slides alongside the conductor. You install them with a pair of pliers to squish them onto the wire. These last a few weeks to months before galvanic action corrodes the connection. They are famous for being intermittent down the road. | Whatever else you may do, don't ever, change
wire colors as you go along.
ie: red connects to blue, then green, then brown, then comes out on the other end of the bundle, white. Unless, of course, you are planning on driving someone stark raving mad as they later try to figure it out. |
| A rule of thumb when adding wiring for stereos and the like. Always find and follow the factory's wiring course. They obviously knew what they were doing because the wires are still there and good. Don't caddy-corner across the floormat. Feet on the floor will rub the insulation off until they short to the floor. Also, exhaust pipes make it hot under the mats, and wires can melt. | Always look for moving parts when running wiring.
Don't tie wrap to the brake petal swing brackets or accelerator linkage.
Use grommets to run through holes in sheet metal. Don't just tape the wire and hope. For big holes, get wire loom and put the split seam into and around the hole's edge. You can create large 'grommets' this way. |
| Chop up a 12 gauge extension cord for runs under a truck and for trailer wiring. You get 3 wires, black, white, and green, and the outer sheathing and braiding is much tougher than taped wires. It will take quite a while for all the layers of insulation to fail from rubbing against the frame. | Don't use too small of wire. For 12volts:
Signal circuits ie relays, gauges, ect. 18 AWG Up to 5 amps: 14 AWG (American Wire Gauge) Up to 10 amps: 12 AWG Up to 20 amps: 10 AWG Up to 30 amps: 8 AWG Up to 40 amps: 6 AWG Up to 50 amps: 4 AWG More than 60 amps: 2 AWG welding cable. Using smaller wires then the above ratings may stand the heat, but you will have voltage drop problems. |
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