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The dash panel in my truck
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The air supply
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Connection at the driver's
side shock. Please excuse the dirt and grease. After all, this is
a daily driver!! The tee feeds the shock on the other side. The line is
1/4" copper with compression fittings. The shock line is the plastic stuff
they came with, and are connected using 1/8" compression's.
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This is the type of air compressor
I used. This is a custom deluxe $39.95 unit with gauge. Disassemble
the plastic case and remove the compressor assembly. A $9.95 non gauge
unit will work too. I had one installed up until this last weekend. I decided
to replace it with the bigger Truck Air unit because the compressor assembly
is much better made, and pumps 'em up fast!
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The Truck Air with the case
opened. The compressor sandwiches between the two halves.
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The Truck Air apart and removed
from case. This unit is well made and has a big motor/gear assembly! The
compressor piston is about 3/4" in diameter, and the motor is 2 1/2" in
diameter.
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This is the installed compressor.
It's mounted using part of an antenna clamp. (I'm a radio tech and a scrounge.
what can I say?) I use the existing hose to connect to a Schrader valve
assembly. which has the core removed. This way, when (and I do mean when)
the compressor dies, it's easy to replace it. About every other year I've
replaced a worn-out unit, and it takes less than 15 minutes. The Truck
Air will no doubt last longer. Watch the gear as it's mounted to make sure
it's clear.
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This is a closer view of the
check valve assembly. I used an air compressor unloader valve that's easy
to get from WW Grainger, and the part number is: 4X996. The check valve
is a critical part of this system because the reed valves in the compressor
head can't hold the pressure. I had to solder the bleed hole shut in my
system. I wouldn't pump past 80 PSI due to bleed hole leakage. Use a soldering
gun or big iron, not a torch, or it will overheat and destroy the check
valve.
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1/4" copper line with compression
or flared fittings are all that's needed for the supply lines. It will
handle the pressure just fine. The dash gauge is a rear feed 200 PSI unit.
I made the dash panel out of 1/16" aluminum sheeting and drilled a hole
for the fitting. Then I mounted the gauge to the panel using it's case
screws. For a fancier looking setup, head for the nearest heavy truck dealer
and get an in-dash air pressure gauge. It will more than likely be a Stewert
Warner gauge from a Kenworth or Peterbilt dealer, and expensive.
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If you've been wondering about
the oil pressure switch in the diagram, it's because most air bags and
shocks have to have a minimum pressure. Otherwise, they will collapse and
tear themselves up during movement of the suspension. The lines will get
torn loose too. When the key is on, the oil light switch will automatically
switch the compressor on until at least 20 PSI is reached. This is in case
you forget to look at the gauge and drive around with no air pressure.
This is an optional feature, but If you don't install the switch, keep
an eye on the gauge once in a while. Especially before you start driving.
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Here's a way to mount
standard fitting mount type gauges. Right click and select view image
for a better look.
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