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 How To Rebuild Your Brakes - Continued  

F100_1.jpg (11604 bytes)General Application
1967-1972 F-100 Specific

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PARTS

With classic vehicles, you have another element to deal with. The availability of parts for your application.  In some cases the parts are no longer available from local sources and mail order may be your only option.  In some cases, the parts may not be available at all. There is hope though.

Discontinued brake shoes can be relined if in good condition.  There also may be a "New-Old Stock" source for hard to find applications.  Last, you may find that used parts are your only option if you stay with the original braking system.  You maybe able to find drums or wheel cylinders that are still in rebuildable condition through local wrecking yards.  I would caution heavily against the uses of used brake hardware such as springs, clips, cables and wheel cylinder seals, as these parts cannot be reconditioned. 

When faced with limited parts options, you may want to look into upgrading your brake system through the use of aftermarket brake kits.   These kits provide the user with modern components and the added safety of advanced design. Many aftermarket kits are offered with a power option not originally available on many older vehicles.


TEAR DOWN & RECONDITIONING

F100_6.jpg (10835 bytes)After safely jacking and supporting your vehicle, remove the wheels and drums.  Before you start the teardown you need to clean the brake dust from the backing plate and hardware.  On older model vehicles which have been in storage a long time this is most important. Older brakes linings were made of asbestos-containing compounds and this dust needs to be safely removed before work begins.  

F100_11.jpg (7530 bytes)There are several ways to clean the brakes before starting work. One, is to pressure wash them with detergent soap and blow dry with compressed air.  The method I prefer, is to chemically clean the brakes with Berryman's Brake Cleaner which is available through your local parts store.   The cleaning process is done by placing a shop towel or catch pan below the brake and washing the brake down from the top down.  The final results leave you with very clean used parts, ideal for tear down.

You should always wear a dust mask during the cleaning phase, whether asbestos is present or not. If you suspect that asbestos is present, you can duct tape a plastic bag to the location, leaving an entry large enough for one hand to run the spray can. Avoid breathing the dust or getting it on you. An old tooth brush can help immensely in the cleaning. Surgical Latex or Rubber gloves should be used if asbestos is suspected while cleaning and handling of the linings.

F100_8.jpg (9238 bytes)After the hardware was removed, we sprayed down the backing plate and wiped clean any residue.  The above photo shows the cleaned backing plate.   Next, we tanked the hardware in our parts cleaner. Now, not every home shop has the room for a full size parts washer. For years I used Berryman's Chem-Dip in a 1 gallon container. Their 1 and 3/4 gallon containers come with a parts basket like the one shown in the photo. The product works very well on stubborn crud found on brake parts. There isn't much to preparing parts for re-installation other than cleaning and inspecting the parts. This part of the job is still very important and should not be over looked.

Here, you can see we have lubricated the star adjuster with an anti-seize compound to make adjustment easy.  This anti-seize lubricate is water resistant and helps prevent the adjuster from rusting as well. Originally a white grease such as Berrymans White Lithium (Part No. 2016) was used to lubricate these parts and is still a good choice for metal to metal applications. [more]

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